Crown Jewel of the Red River Gorge
Welcome Rock Climbers!
First and Foremost – Although no admission fees of any kind are charged, all visitors who intend to climb in Muir Valley must must read our WARNINGS AND RULES and execute our On-Line WAIVER prior to climbing here. Please remember that rock climbing is a dangerous sport that can result in your injury and death. Responsible, experienced climbers may climb any of the established open routes but do so at their own risk, which is significant!
The single-pitch sport and trad climbing routes in Muir Valley are among the finest in the Eastern U.S. Over 400 routes range in difficulty from 5.2 to 5.14a and terminate at rock anchors from 20 to 100 feet from the ground. Muir also includes a few two-pitch routes and bouldering cliffs. Pockets, crimpers, splitters, chimneys, dihedrals, and aretes abound.
Some of the climbs in Muir valley are Traditional Routes (Trad), meaning there are no mechanical aids added to the rock to offer climbers a safer way to attach themselves to the rock wall. Trad climbers carry with them removable mechanical devices (pro) that they place into pockets and cracks to provide attachment for their climbing rope. Some of the trad routes include top rock anchors at the tops of the climbs. A trad climber's pro offers them some protection from falling. Because it is not possible to monitor how well trad climbers place their gear, they are totally responsible for their personal safety.
Most of the established routes in Muir Valley are Sport Routes, which means that from the bottom to the top of the climb, there are several rock anchors onto which a climber can clip her rope to provide some protection from falling. At the top of the sport routes are top rock anchors, from which a climber can rappel from when he is finished with that particular climb.
Please understand that rock anchors, and any other artificial installations found in Muir Valley, such as, but not limited to, chains, hangers, cable leaders, and quicklinks, are placed there for the convenience of the installer and/or owner of the property and they offer you absolutely no guarantees to your personal safety! Any use of these installations is undertaken solely at the risk and discretion and risk of the individual so choosing to utilize them. Because it is not possible to continuously monitor the quality of the rock or the structural integrity of rock anchors, a risk of unknown degree exists on all Muir Valley Climbs. The American Safe Climbing Association states, “No bolt is ever guaranteed, and trusting a bolt with your life is always a gamble." If you are unwilling to accept full responsibility for this risk, then do not climb in Muir Valley!
Be sure to read updated information about Muir on the bulletin board at the pavilion before going out to climb. There is also a large map there of the Valley showing how to get to the more than 30 climbing areas within Muir.
The Muir Valley owner—the Muir Valley organization—is grateful for donations, which may be made at the pavilion donation box, made on line by PayPal or credit card on the DONATION page of this website or sent to Muir Valley, 50 Road, Rogers KY 41365. Donations may also be made by contacting firstname.lastname@example.org . Monetary donations and donations of time and effort made by volunteers help Muir Valley to continue to remain open to climbing.